Khawakarpo is one of the most revered and sacred mountains in Tibet. When you stand in its magnificent presence, you can’t help but be awe struck, in a trance-like state, as the mountain emanates its powerful and mystical rays of a fully awakened mind to your entire being. You are right to ask, “What does this really mean?” That’s a fair question and I would ask that question too. But, honestly, as someone who has visited Khawakarpo many times over the past 16 years, I would say describing this deeply moving experience to someone who has never experienced it themselves, is not possible. There is no substitute. You need to go there yourself to encounter Khawakarpo’s profound influence.
Among Khawakarpo’s powerful draws for me is that we share the same animal birth sign. Ours is the year of the Sheep. In the Fall of 2003, when I turned 60, I packed my bags and left my home in Hanover, New Hampshire and set off to circumambulate Khawakarpo. My cousin Wangdui, 12 years my junior, joined me for the pilgrimage and we met in my hometown of Gyalthang, recently renamed Shangrila. After crossing the upper reaches of the great Yangtze and Salween rivers that nurture so many civilizations, we switched from travel by land cruiser to riding mules. In actuality, “riding” was mostly in name only. Most Tibetans don’t like riding their animals on steep uphill or downhill tracts, as they consider it unkind. This limits most “riding” to the flat lands. Considering Tibet’s rugged and steep topography this is likely to be only one third of any journey in Tibet. Anyway, the high light of the pilgrimage was to be soaked under a great waterfall of melting snow from Khawakarpo. Yes, you are wise to carry a large towel and a set of dry clothes following the holy soak. Those who go around the waterfall three times and fail to be soaked are thought to be unkind goats among the sheep. I’m always a sheep.
Kesang Tashi
March 4, 2020
Khawakarpo